A Safari Luncheon in Botswana
Reprinted by permission of the publishers, Lyons & Burford, from
"The Orvis Cookbook" (£19.00). All rights reserved.
|CAMP MACHABA TERRINE OF DOVE|
|SOUR FRENCH CORNICHONS|
|HOWLEY WHITE BREAD WITH BUTTER|
|STERLING NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON|
|SPINACH SALAD À LA SAFARI SOUTH|
|ORANGE MARMALADE SOUFFLÉ WITH RUM VANILLA SAUCE|
Botswana is ideal in August. It's cool at night, sunny and dry in the daytime. It's also a paradise for bird watching, game viewing, fly fishing, and bird shooting. On a typical afternoon dove shoot, eight guns can bag enough to feed everyone in the three (small) villages on the way back to camp, with enough left over to make Dove Terrine for the guests and staff.
The camp waiters, in burgundy coats with black trim and matching burgundy fezzes with black tassels, deftly serve thick slices of this delicious terrine for luncheon. It is accompanied by a really different-tasting spinach salad with peanut butter in the dressing, home-made white bread, and an excellent African red wine.
It all makes one feel so sorry for Ernest Hemingway's characters; they obviously went into the bush with the wrong outfitters. Francis Macomber's wife would have gained ten pounds happily, and Death would have gotten his bicycle stuck in the sand just outside the mess tent. Not only are the Real Men there, but they eat, among other things, broccoli quiche, tigerfish mousse, and dove terrine.
In Africa, the bag would be a mix of Cape turtle, red eye, and laughing dove. Our American mourning dove is closest in size to the laughing dove and you can figure it will take about 14 to 16 birds of this size to make a pound of breast meat.
You can substitute an equal weight of squab, goose, or duck. This recipe will fill 1 large bread-loaf pan or two smaller oval terrines. It will keep 7 to 10 days in the refrigerator and freezes well, but loses a little in texture and flavor compared to a fresh terrine that has been cured 2 days.
Camp Machaba Terrine
MAKES 1 LARGE BREAD LOAF-SIZE TERRINE
OR 2 SMALLER TERRINES
- 1 pound dove breasts (14 to 16 mourning doves)
- 1 medium onion
- 2 cloves garlic
- ¼ pound chicken livers
- 2 eggs
- ½ pound back fat or fatty bacon
- ½ pound pork sausage in bulk
- ¼ cup dry red wine
- ½ teaspoon dried tarragon (If fresh, use 1 teaspoon, minced.)
- ¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg)
- ¼ teaspoon freshly ground cloves
- 1 teaspoon salt
- ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Preheat oven to 350°.|
Cut meat off the bones and remove skin. For the next step, a hand-operated grinder is best, but you can use a food processor. Chop the onion and garlic first and then add the dove and liver, running the processor for only 5 seconds. It should be roughly processed.
In a large bowl, mix the sausage, wine, tarragon, and spices and then add the dove mixture, blending very thoroughly. Line the loaf pan or terrine with bacon, leaving it draped over the edge so you can fold the strips over the top of the meat.
Tightly cover with foil first and then cover with the lid, if there is one. Place the terrines or loaf pan in a shallow baking pan and pour hot water into the pan to a level at least halfway up the sides of the terrines and cook for 1 hour.
After cooking allow the terrine to cool first, then remove any lids, leaving foil in place, and weight down with canned goods or rocks and refrigerate overnight. Remove from the pan the following day and wrap in plastic wrap or foil. Allow to cure for at least 1 more day before serving. The flavors mellow and soften with curing—don't do yourself a disservice by eating it right away.
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Sour French Cornichons
-MAKES 2 PINTS
- 35 cornichons, or small cucumbers 1½ to 2 inches long
- 1½ cups distilled white vinegar
- 8 to 10 tiny white pickled onions (Gibson type)
- 1 green bell pepper
- 1 red bell pepper
- 2 sprigs fresh tarragon
- 2 sprigs fresh thyme
- 4 large garlic cloves, peeled and halved, with any green centre sprouts removed
You can buy these in any good food specialty store or, if you have a garden, try growing your own — the pickles are easy to make. For real French seeds, write or call:
Herb Gathering, Inc.
Kansas City, Missouri 64110
Telephone (816) 523-2653.
Have on hand at least 35 small cucumbers 1½ to 2 inches long before you start this recipe. Pick them fresh every day and refrigerate them, unwashed, in a covered jar until you have enough.
Rub cornichons with your thumb under running water to remove the tiny spines or warts, and drain in a colander. In a large bowl place one layer of cornichons, sprinkle salt over them and continue layering until all cucumbers are used. Cover and marinate at room temperature for 24 hours.
Rinse well and dry on paper towels. Place in a dry
bowl. Combine distilled white vinegar with water, and bring to a boil. Pour boiling liquid over cucumbers and cover. Marinate another 24 hours. They will look yellowish.
Have 2 pint jars with lids sterilized and ready. Julienne the peppers.
Strain the liquid into an enamel pan and bring to a boil. Add the cornichons and boil 1 minute. Remove pickles with tongs and pack into the jars, each with a sprig of fresh tarragon, some tiny onions, slices of the green and red peppers, two garlic cloves, and a thyme sprig.
Pour the boiling vinegar mixture over the cornichons to within ¼ inch of the top and seal with the hot lids. Let cure for at least 4 weeks and then chill before serving.
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Howley White Bread
-MAKES 2 LOAVES
- 2¾ cups warm water
- 2 packages dry yeast
- 3 tablespoons sugar
- 1 tablespoon salt
- 2 tablespoons soft butter
- 6 ½ cups enriched flour, sifted
- 1 egg yolk
- 1 tablespoon cool water
- Pinch salt
This is a fine-grained bread with a chewy texture akin to English muffins. The egg yolk and water glaze develop a good crust. It slices well and is delicious toasted. While the classic French baguette is the usual accompaniment for terrines and pates, this makes a nice variation. It freezes well and makes the best Bread Pudding which see) by far.
Preheat oven to 375°.
Measure into a large mixing bowl the 2¾cups warm water. Add, stirring to dissolve, 2 packages dry yeast. Stir in the sugar, salt, and soft butter. Stir in and beat until smooth 3 cups sifted flour. Mix in 3½ cups additional flour.
Form dough into a ball, place in a lightly buttered bowl, and cover with a tea towel or waxed paper. Let rise in a warm place until double in bulk, about 30 minutes. Stir and beat batter down for 30 seconds. Divide dough in half, put into 2 greased bread pans, and let rise for 30 minutes.
Brush the tops of the dough with egg yolk beaten with 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of salt. Bake for 40 minutes. The loaf should sound hollow when tapped if it is done. Remove the loaves from oven, lay them on their sides in the pans for 10 minutes to cool, then slide them out of the pans and cool to room temperature before wrapping in plastic wrap or foil.
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Spinach Salad à la Safari South
-SERVES 6 TO 8
- 1 pound fresh spinach leaves (large, if possible)
- 12 strips of bacon (thick sliced), cut into ½-inch lengths
- 2 cloves of garlic, peeled (optional)
- 10 slices of white bread, cubed
(optional), or 1 cup of
- prepared garlic croutons
- ½ cup walnuts or pecans, coarsely chopped
Wash and dry the spinach and remove its stems. Stack or 6 leaves on top of each other and roll them up like a cigar. Shred finely with a knife. Store this in a plastic bag in the refrigerator while frying the bacon. Fry bacon until crisp and then drain on paper towels and set aside. Use bacon fat to fry croutons with the 2 cloves of garlic, until the bread is crisp and browned. Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. Discard the 2 garlic pieces and wrap the croutons in paper towels to drain. Just before serving, toss the shredded leaves with ½ cup of nuts and the bacon, and then drizzle dressing lightly. Scatter croutons on top.|
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- 1 cup of extra virgin olive oil
- 1/3 cup of raspberry vinegar
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
- 1 tablespoon of prepared Dijon
- 1 tablespoon of peanut butter (smooth)
- 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
- ¼ teaspoon of salt, with freshly ground pepper to taste
- ½ teaspoon sugar
|Shake all ingredients well in a quart jar
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Orange Marmalade Soufflé
-SERVES 6 AMPLY
- 6 tablespoons orange marmalade, plus 2 tablespoons for the pan
- 6 egg whites
- 3 tablespoons sugar plus 2 tablespoons for pan and lid
This soufflé could be made over a campfire. The important thing to remember is to cook it above just simmering water, not wildly boiling water. It will hold for at least 15 minutes if the meal is delayed. For variation, it can also be made with lime or grapefruit marmalades.
The soufflé should be dome-shaped and much pretier if you use a double boiler that has a top pan with rounded, not a flat bottom.
Lightly butter the inside lid and the interior of the top pan of a 4-cup double boiler. Spread 2 tablespoons marmalade over the butter. Sprinkle the same surfaces rith 2 tablespoons granulated sugar. Set aside, uncovred.
Beat egg whites until stiff, add 3 tablespoons sugar, and beat 1 minute more. Fold a little of the egg whites into the 6 tablespoons marmalade and then fold this lightened mixture into the rest of the egg whites.
Put the lower part of the double boiler on the heat and bring the water to a simmer.
Pour mixture into the prpared top of the double boiler and set over lower pan on heat. Cover, and leave simmering gently for 45 minutes. This is the strongest soufflé you've ever seen. If it pushes the lid of the pan up, don't worry. Just try to ignore it.
Check the bottom pan a few times to make sure rere is still enough water in it. Add a little boiling ater if it needs it. While the soufflé is cooking, make Rum Vanilla Sauce.
Rum Vanilla Sauce
-SERVES 6 TO 8
- 3 egg yolks
- 3/4 cup confectioner's sugar
- 3 tablespoons light rum
- 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
- 1 cup heavy cream, whipped, or1 cup softened vanilla ice cream
Beat the yolks. Add sugar, rum, and vanilla, and blend thoroughly. Fold in cream. When ready to serve, remove the top pan with the soufflé from heat and wipe off any water. Put a warmed plate over the pan, invert, and unmold soufflé. Pour Rum Vanilla Sauce into a sauce boat and serve alongside the soufflé.|
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